Niloufer's Kitchen

Monday, 5 May 2025

Lassi- Yoghurt Milk Shake

Lassi

Most foodie streets in the subcontinent typically feature lassi stalls, a popular drink among the masses. Lassi is a refreshing drink with a base of thick yoghurt, thinned down with ice cubes, milk, and water. Parsis generally prefer to have mitthi, or sweet lassi, with sugar added, or khaari, or salty lassi, which is flavoured with salt and, occasionally, freshly ground black pepper too.

A lassi can also be prepared with mangoes when in season, and flavours of rose water, saffron, cardamom, and cumin are typical options. A simple and delicious way of keeping hydrated, nourished, and healthy during the long, hot summers.

Growing up, we often had a glass of lassi at teatime on hot summer days and as a must on Sundays as a drink before family lunch through the summer.

Serves 6

750 g | 24 oz full fat yoghurt

3 cups chilled whole milk

1 tsp salt or 3 tbsp sguar or to taste

1 cup of ice cubes or crushed ice distributed in 6 chilled glasses

Beat the yoghurt , salt or sugar, and pour in the milk continuing to beat until frothy. Remove in six chilled glasses that have been filled with ice at the bottom of the glass.

Tips

If you choose to prepare a sweet lassi, you will still need to add a pinch of salt for flavour, and the same if you prefer a salty lassi, you have to add a pinch of sugar.

Photo credit Niloufer Mavalvala

My published cookbooks are available for sale through myself via email, in independent book stores across the world and on Amazon India.

The Route to Parsi Cooking: From Pars to India and Beyond is an award winning book. It has been self published in June 2024. Email at theroutetoparsicooking@gmail.com

The World of Parsi Cooking: Food Across Borders is a 3 award winning book. It has been self published in July 2019 and will be going into its second print in 2022.

The Vegetarian Parsi, inspired by tradition is an award winning cookbook. It was published by Spenta Multimedia India and is available on Amazon India and through email order at thevegetarianparsi@gmail.com.

The Art of Parsi Cooking; reviving an ancient cuisine was published in 2016 by Austin Macauley and continues to be available through amazon book depot book depository and from the publishers.

Monday, 10 March 2025

Harira Soup

Harira Soup

The literal translation of this soup, which is a staple of North African Maghrebi cuisine, is smooth and silky, with the word harir meaning silk or silken cloth. This soup's velvety texture is essential, and the meat stock serves as a base for the flavour. This substantial and tasty soup features chickpeas, saffron, tomatoes, and spices.

It is the soup of choice to break a fast in Ramadan, serving as a robust precursor to the iftari meal. Dried lemons and figs, or dates, depending on the local region, accompany the fresh flatbreads served with it.

The term "Maghreb" (meaning "west") and Maghrebi cuisine refer to the western region of northern Africa that includes Morocco, Libya, Tunisia, and Algeria.

STOCK
Boil together (for 1 ½ hours)
1 kg| 2.2 lb meat bones +1 tsp salt +1 sliced onion, in 2 L| 8 cups cool water.
Strain and keep aside. Reserve 6 cups to prepare the soup.

The SOUP
In a "soup" pot saute`
1 tbsp melted smen or brown butter +1tbsp olive oil

3 tbsp celery, finely diced

1/2 cup onion, very finely chopped

1 tsp cinnamon powder
1 tbsp ginger powder (or to taste)
1 tsp salt

1 tsp white pepper powder
150 g| 3/4 cup lamb or veal pieces cut in small pieces
Pour in 6 cups of prepared meat stock
half a cup each of fresh parsley and corriander, finely chopped
a few sprigs of fresh mint, finely chopped
½ cup red lentils; washed
Bring this to boil and add
1 tbsp flour + 1/4 tsp saffron, well mixed in warm 3 tbsp stock or water
750 gm /19 oz can of chickpeas. washed and drained
1 1/4 cup fresh peeled tomatoes, pureed into a coulis
2 tbsp tomato paste
Juice of one lemon, adding more to taste

Cover the pot, continue cooking on a simmer for another 45 minutes to an hour. Taste for salt, ginger and pepper.
Serve with dried or fresh lemon wedges, harissa paste and pita toasts and figs and
dates on the side.

Photo credit Sheriar Hirjikaka

My published cookbooks are available for sale through myself via email, in independent book stores across the world and on Amazon India.

The Route to Parsi Cooking: From Pars to India and Beyond is an award winning book. It has been self published in June 2024. Email at theroutetoparsicooking@gmail.com

The World of Parsi Cooking: Food Across Borders is a 3 award winning book. It has been self published in July 2019 and will be going into its second print in 2022.

The Art of Parsi Cooking; reviving an ancient cuisine was published in 2016 by Austin Macauley and continues to be available through amazon book depot book depository and from the publishers.

Monday, 3 February 2025

Parsi cheese toast

The three basic staples in every Parsi home are egg, potato, and bread. Combining them and adding grated cheese to it prepares the very old-fashioned retro 'cheese toast,' which we friends want to name Karachi toast. There was a time when all our grandmothers used to make this for us, deep-fried or pan-fried; we had it for tea time or as a snack. Eventually the popularity caught on in a much-frequented gymkhana club, where the only difference was they cut the slice of bread into three fingers, while we at home continued to prepare them as triangles.

Serve it hot. While it doesn't need any accompaniment, some would disagree, and tomato ketchup used to be a go-to for many.

It may have well been first created to use up leftovers.

Serves 6

4 slices of white bread (you may need one more)

Mix together into a spoonable mash.

3/4 lb| 350 gm potatoes, peeled, boiled, and smashed

1 egg

salt

1/3 lb | 175gm grated strong cheddar

optional: 1/2 tsp red chili powder

Divide this into 4 equal portions and spoon in a generous heap over the bread. Leave to chill and dry in the fridge for an hour.

Heat oil in a pan, and place the prepared toast potato mix face down. Cook until golden brown, turn over, and cook another 30 seconds until the toast is a golden crisp. Remove this with a slotted spoon and place it on a kitchen towel to absorb any excess oil. Repeat with the rest of the toast.

Cut with a sharp bread knife. Serve hot.

Tips

Cut these into pieces before frying them. This will give you extra crispy crunchy edges to bite on.

Preparing this in an air fryer or a toaster oven is an option if preferred.

Sunday, 19 January 2025

Basque cheesecake

Basque Cheesecake

I've tried multiple Basque cheesecakes, and each one was unique. Some were hard and dense, while others were mildly flavoured and required a topping. I created this variation because I prefer my cheesecakes smooth, silky, soft, and not cold, but rather at room temperature.

Serves 8 to 10

Preheat the oven to 200 C | 400 F.

Prepare a 20 cm | 8 inch springform pan with one large piece of parchment that covers the whole pan until the top to prevent leaks.

250 g | 8.8 oz mascarpone cream cheese

250 g | 8.8 oz other cream cheese of your choice or ricotta

1 cup white sugar

1 tbsp cornstarch

1 tbsp limoncello

1 tsp vanilla extract

1/2 tsp salt

3 large eggs or 4 small eggs

375 ml | 12 oz | 1 1/2 cups of 35% cream with the juice of one lemon squeezed into it. Stir and let it stand for 15 minutes to slightly thicken.

In a food processor, whip all the ingredients together in the order listed, and beat until smooth and creamy. Start with the cheese, sugar, cornstarch, and salt. Add the rest of the ingredients one at a time with the machine running. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan.

Place in the preheated oven to bake for 50 minutes. It must have a wobble. If the top is still pale, turn the broiler on high for a minute or two. A Basque cheesecake must have 'burnt' skin on top. Remove and let it cool for 3 hours before serving. Do not refrigerate if you like it smooth, silky, and melt-in-the-mouth. If you live in a cold country, leave it outside overnight.

Serve it with fresh fruit like berries, cherries, or oranges.

Tips

To set it faster, you can place it in the refirgerator for 15 minutes. You can chill this cheesecake further if you prefer it cold but, the consistency will differ.

My published cookbooks are available for sale through myself via email, in independent book stores across the world and on Amazon India.

The Route to Parsi Cooking: From Pars to India and Beyond is an award winning book. It has been self published in June 2024. Email at theroutetoparsicooking@gmail.com

The World of Parsi Cooking: Food Across Borders is a 3 award winning book. It has been self published in July 2019 and will be going into its second print in 2022.

The Art of Parsi Cooking; reviving an ancient cuisine was published in 2016 by Austin Macauley and continues to be available through amazon book depot book depository and from the publishers.

Saturday, 21 December 2024

Escargot in Puff Pastry

Escargot in puff pastry

When we first moved, discovering new restaurants was a treat. A local fine dining restaurant nearby served this dish, which was delightful and rather intriguing. Recreating this in my home kitchen, I thought to call it a snuff puff; it sounded rather snobbish, much like the restaurant! It doesn't. It has a rather opposite connotation.

This rather elegant dish is now reserved for a sit-down, special occasion and is always much loved. It is rather filling, and I suggest a fresh salad and a light main to serve with this. A glass of crisp white wine pairs rather well. Bon appétit!

Serves 8

8 vol-au-vents, frozen

2 oz| 57g salted butter

2 shallots, very finely chopped

1 clove of garlic, crushed

8 oz| 227 g escargots

8 oz ] 227 g chicken stock

8 oz | 227 g cream

4 tbsp dark rum

Salt to taste

A pinch of sugar

2 crushed allspice berries

2 crushed juniper berries

8 + 4 oz | 227+113 g cream cheese

2 tbsp of fresh tarragon and parsley, finely chopped

Pre-bake the vol-au-vents for 17 minutes until fully risen but still pale. Remove the top and set aside.

In a pan, melt the butter and sauté the shallots until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and the escargot. Cook for 3 minutes. Remove from the fire and keep aside.

In another pan prepare the sauce. Heat the chicken stock, cream, sugar, and spice berries. Bring this to a boil, lower the heat, and allow it to cook for 30 minutes. Halfway through, add the rum. Cook until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Stir in the fresh herbs. Divide it into two pans.

In the first pan of sauce, add the escargot. stir and taste for salt.

In pan number two, add 4 oz of cream cheese to thicken the sauce before plating. Taste for salt.

To serve

Spoon a tablespoon of cream cheese, and top this with the escargot sauce. Reheat for 7 minutes in a preheated 350°F oven, then place each on a prepared platter spread with the heavier cheese sauce. Serve immediately.

Tips

Salt is an important element. The stock, the cheese, and the escargots may have pre-added saltiness. It is therefore advisable to taste both sauces at the very end before seasoning them with salt.

Shallots are small onions and would be equivalent to 2 tbsp of very finely, chopped onions.

Choose a cream cheese with a rich flavor, such as Bel Paese.

Madeira, marsala, sherry, and white port are alternatives to rum.

Preparing the three components, vol au vents, and the set of two sauces ahead of time works well. Bring them to room temperature before proceeding.

My published cookbooks are available for sale through myself via email, in independent book stores across the world and on Amazon India.

The Route to Parsi Cooking: From Pars to India and Beyond is an award winning book. It has been self published in June 2024. Email at theroutetoparsicooking@gmail.com

The World of Parsi Cooking: Food Across Borders is a 3 award winning book. It has been self published in July 2019 and will be going into its second print in 2022.

The Art of Parsi Cooking; reviving an ancient cuisine was published in 2016 by Austin Macauley and continues to be available through amazon book depot book depository and from the publishers.

Sunday, 17 November 2024

Orange Rice

Orange Rice

This orange rice has a refreshing flavour and looks lovely on a buffet table. My family made it with an orange hotpot curry, which is not typical of Parsi cuisine. Nonetheless, the orange rice transports me back to my Persian ancestors.

This is a favourite recipe of mine, and I frequently serve it with a Parsi gos ni curry—lamb curry. The orange and green onions complement the curry's bold spices while also cutting the fattiness of the meat. Do you want to know if it's sweet? It is not the case. It is, however, an excellent substitute for a traditional recipe.

Serves 6

2 1/2 cups rice

2 tsp salt

2 tsp butter or oil

4 cups stock-chicken, meat, or vegetable

1 cup orange juice

8 finely sliced green onions, all the way down to the greens

Zest of two oranges and two lemons; leave some to garnish

Wash the rice and add it to a pot. Add all the other ingredients and bring it to a boil. Let the water evaporate until you can see the layer of rice. Cover and lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes, until the rice is tender and each grain is separate. Transfer to a platter, garnish, and serve immediately.

Tips

Freshly squeezed orange juice is best.

Adjust the salt if your chicken stock is already salty.

My published cookbooks are available for sale through myself via email, in independent book stores across the world and on Amazon India.

The Route to Parsi Cooking: From Pars to India and Beyond is an award winning book. It has been self published in June 2024. Email at theroutetoparsicooking@gmail.com

The World of Parsi Cooking: Food Across Borders is a 3 award winning book. It has been self published in July 2019 and will be going into its second print in 2022.

The Art of Parsi Cooking; reviving an ancient cuisine was published in 2016 by Austin Macauley and continues to be available through amazon book depot book depository and from the publishers.

Green peas and meat stew | Leela Vatena ma Gos

Leela Vatena ma Gos | Green Peas and Meat Stew

We only ate seasonal vegetables when I was growing up. It was always fresh, with little access to frozen or processed foods. We had no idea how fortunate we were to be eating nutritious meals. Green peas were in season through the winter months in Karachi, and this hearty stew was considered ideal on a chilly night. Eaten with fresh warm rotlis, vegetables cooked with meat and its broth called "ma gos," is a common way most Parsi homes serve up their daily meals. This is thanks to our ancient Persian food culture and heritage, which play an important role in moulding our cuisine.

In time, I have also learned to prepare fried onions in large quantities to freeze and keep for daily use, saving both time and cleaning up. Fresh ginger and garlic are crushed in batches and refrigerated for cooking daily meals. Organising my pantry whenever it is convenient greatly helps me.

Serves 6

1 tsp oil

1 kg |2.2 lb bone in meat pieces, lamb, mutton, or goat

2 tsp crushed ginger

2 tsp crushed garlic

1 ½ tsp salt

1 ½ tsp cumin powder

1 tsp red chilli powder

1 cinnamon stick

6 green cardamom pods

4 cloves

4 black peppercorns

3 green chillies, finely chopped

3 tomatoes, skinned and finely chopped

1 ¼ cup crushed fried onions

1 kg |2.2 lb fresh tender green peas in their pod-cleaned

500 g | 1.1 lb potatoes, peeled and cubed

8 green onions or scallions—cut into large chunks

1/2 cup finely chopped fresh coriander

In a pan, heat the oil. Add the pieces of meat and brown them all over. Add the ginger, garlic, salt, cumin, and chilli powders. Stir. Add all the warm spices. After another minute, add the green chillies, tomatoes, and fried onions. Once mixed, add 2 cups of water. Bring it to a boil, cover, lower the heat, and allow it to cook for 45 minutes until the meat is almost tender. Add all the prepared vegetables—fresh green peas, potatoes, green onions, and coriander. Cook this together until the meat is tender and the gravy is thick. Serve hot with fresh, warm rotli.

Green peas, chips and chicken.

Tips

Use the entire green onion.

If you must use frozen peas, you will need just 700 g|1 1/2 lb and add it towards the end.

My published cookbooks are available for sale through myself via email, in independent book stores across the world and on Amazon India.

The Route to Parsi Cooking: From Pars to India and Beyond is an award winning book. It has been self published in June 2024. Email at theroutetoparsicooking@gmail.com

The World of Parsi Cooking: Food Across Borders is a 3 award winning book. It has been self published in July 2019 and will be going into its second print in 2022.

The Art of Parsi Cooking; reviving an ancient cuisine was published in 2016 by Austin Macauley and continues to be available through amazon book depot book depository and from the publishers.

Fatteh

Lebanese, Syrians, and their Levantine neighbours all like a properly made Fatteh. Comfort food, like thick soup, must be prepared just before serving to avoid becoming soggy.

I started to appreciate it at my dearest aunt Nehad's house in Karachi, a grand lady who never fails to charm us with the most delicious meals from her home kitchen. We are really lucky to be her family.

This dish can be served in a bowl rather than on a plate, with as little broth as desired.

Serves 4

2 cups of cooked chicken (two breasts of chicken work perfectly.) See Tips

2 cups of good chicken broth, lightly flavoured with a cinnamon stick and 6 cloves, seasoned with salt pepper and the juice of one lemon.

2 cups of cooked chickpeas

Juice of one lemon

2 cups of thick yoghurt that has been seasoned -with a pinch of salt and sugar, and the tahini paste.

2 tbsp. tahini paste

1/2 cup of birista or crispy fried onion

1 tsp. sumac

One large pita, broken into pieces and tossed with garlic and olive oil, is baked or panfried until crisp.

A cupful of finely chopped, fresh mint and parsley

To assemble

Place the chunks of cut-cooked chicken and the chickpeas into the seasoned chicken broth. When ready to serve, bring it to a boil and pour it into a deep dish.

Place half the pita crisps over it. Pour the prepared yoghurt all over. Place the other half of the pita all over. Sprinkle this with sumac, the birista, and freshly chopped herbs. serve immediately.

Tips

To poach the chicken, bring 6 cups of water to a boil. Season this with 2 teaspoons of salt, an onion, cinnamon, and cloves, dried and fresh herbs, bay leaf, and celery stick—any or all of the above. Add the chicken, whole or in pieces, and bring this to a simmer. Cook for an hour. Remove the chicken, cut it into equal chunks, and keep it aside. Return the bones of the chicken to the poaching liquid and continue to simmer the broth until only 2 cupfuls are left. Strain and keep aside.

If you are using roasted chicken, gather the bones and skin of the chicken and prepare the broth, starting with 4 cups of water and reducing the salt to just one teaspoon. Bring the water with all the vegetables and spices to a boil and cook at a simmer for 2 hours. Cover the pot so it does not evaporate rapidly.

To prepare the pita, rub it with a clove of garlic and brush it with oilive oil. Break or cut them into bite size pieces. Heat the oven to 170 C | 350 F and place it on a cookie sheet to toast for 10 minutes, Or heat a fry pan and toss them over the heat until crispy and golden brown.

If you do not have tahini paste, grind two tablespoons of sesame in a coffee grinder.

My published cookbooks are available for sale through myself via email, in independent book stores across the world and on Amazon India.

The Route to Parsi Cooking: From Pars to India and Beyond is an award winning book. It has been self published in June 2024. Email at theroutetoparsicooking@gmail.com

The World of Parsi Cooking: Food Across Borders is a 3 award winning book. It has been self published in July 2019 and will be going into its second print in 2022.

The Art of Parsi Cooking; reviving an ancient cuisine was published in 2016 by Austin Macauley and continues to be available through amazon book depot book depository and from the publishers.

Gos na kavab - Meat balls with tomato gravy

Gos na Kavab | Meat Balls

Many Parsis enjoy cutlets, or kavab, on a regular basis and will often serve them as an accompaniment to the main course. I found that coming down the food line, it is the kotlet that has become cutlace to us! While the kotlet is referred to as ground meat and potatoes mixed in and pan-fried, the kofta is meat, spice, and herbs. Some of us may be referring to the frilly kind that Bohras are known for making, thin beef cutlets that are dipped in gobs of egg and deep-fried to give them frilly edges, or even to the distinctive pear drop-shaped kotlet-e-mahi, the fish cutlet that is part of the Persian cuisine. While there are plenty of types of kebabs and kavabs to choose from, it is heartwarming to see the tradition that has been carried down through the generations!

The word kofta arises from the Persian word Koftan, meaning to pound-ground, as one does to make a meatball from ground meat. The word "rissole'' can be used as an English reference to what is being prepared. Most Parsi homes used to grind their own lamb meat (as beef was not an option), and it was passed through a grinder at least twice to get the meat fine. Always pan-fried and not barbecued. We typically serve them with Dhansak as an accompaniment; however, they are often served on their own with a delightful tomato sauce called tamota ni gravy that is finely balanced to be sour, sweet, and with a hint of spice.

Old Parsi books have recorded their version with goat, mutton, or lamb na kavab, the same recipe traditionally used in different sizes, with mini ones atop the rice served with Dhansak and larger ones for serving with a tomato sauce as a dish or in a typical Parsi curry.

Few home cooks enjoy frying items in their kitchen; you can easily bake these to minimise the mess and fuss.

Makes 24 kavabs

500 g | 1.1 lb lamb, goat, mutton or beef, finely ground

1½ tsp salt

1½ tsp crushed ginger

1½ tsp crushed garlic

1 tsp turmeric powder

2 tsp cumin powder

½ tsp red chilli powder

6 green chillies, finely chopped

½ cup coriander, finely chopped

¼ cup fresh mint, finely chopped

200 g | 7 oz potato, boiled, peeled, and mashed

1 cup fried onions, crushed

1 cup breadcrumbs, softened in milk

2 eggs, beaten with a fork

Oil to fry

To add the ingredients evenly, mix all the spices and herbs with the meat, then add the potatoes, onions, and breadcrumbs. Lastly, mix in the eggs. Chill this, covered, for 4 hours or overnight. Divide and roll them into balls.

Heat a skillet with oil and fry the meat balls in batches, ensuring the pan is not overcrowded. Cook for 3 minutes on each side on a medium-to-high flame. Turn once.

Serve while hot.

Tips

Tamota ni gravy can be made in 2 hours by boiling 1½ kg | 3.3 lb fresh tomatoes, roughly chopped, with 1 tsp fresh garlic, 1 ½ tsp salt, 85 g| 3 oz jaggery, 3 whole green chillies, 12 fresh mint leaves with the stem in 4 cups fresh water. Remove the green chillies, blend the gravy, and boil util the desired consistency is reached. It makes 1½ cups.

Bake the kavabs at 200°C | 400°F for 20 minutes, then turn, cover, and cook on reduced heat for another 20 minutes. Fry the kavabs up to 48 hours ahead. Once completely cool, cover them to refrigerate. Reheat them in the oven, covered with foil.

My published cookbooks are available for sale through myself via email, in independent book stores across the world and on Amazon India.

The Route to Parsi Cooking: From Pars to India and Beyond is an award winning book. It has been self published in June 2024. Email at theroutetoparsicooking@gmail.com

The World of Parsi Cooking: Food Across Borders is a 3 award winning book. It has been self published in July 2019 and will be going into its second print in 2022.

The Art of Parsi Cooking; reviving an ancient cuisine was published in 2016 by Austin Macauley and continues to be available through amazon book depot book depository and from the publishers.

Tuesday, 23 April 2024

Parsi cookbooks

For more information on ordering a copy of any of these cookbooks email me at theroutetoparsicooking@gmail.com

This cookbook series documents Parsi culinary culture and traditions, with the hope of preserving them for the next century or two. Zoroastrians who migrated to India from Pars, Persia, were known as Parsi, or the people of Pars, and they created their own unique cuisine reflecting their Persian and Indian eating habits. This has continued to this day, and we are happy to share this delicious food with everyone around the world.

It is World Book Day today! Let us celebrate this series of Parsi cookbooks.

Why is The Route to Parsi Cooking exceptional?
This cookbook fluently expresses the sentiment, age, and era of the food. Preserving the past for the future, discover a treasure trove of old recipes that tell tales through cuisine, incredible facts, and humorous anecdotes. Parsis have a natural affinity for all things joyful, and this cookbook depicts our culture, customs, and idiosyncrasies in a lighthearted and delightful manner. Beautiful photographs breathe life into this book, capturing the essence of the cuisine.

Why is The Vegetarian Parsi unique?
One-of-a-kind, this cookbook makes lost specialties, delicacies, and gems of rural Parsi vegetarian cuisine available for sharing.
The book highlights Parsi's obsession with eggs. This is the first and much-needed cookbook that magically recreates how Parsi households cooked, ate, and served their modest vegetarian fare.

Why is The World of Parsi Cooking wonderful?
It not only looks great, but it has the perfect balance of meat, seafood, rice, vegetables, and lentils, as well as sweets and treats. It has the old-world charm in spades but is brought into the 21st century with elegance.

Why is The Art of Parsi Cooking traditional?
It offers an opportunity to revive the fundamentals of traditional Parsi cooking. An inspiration, encouraging the next generation to attempt preparing authentic Parsi cuisine for their families. It evokes nostalgia in the elderly while also giving the young hope of recreating what their grandparents spoke about. A visually appealing cover that stands out from the crowd with a square box design.

To buy a copy, inquire at theroutetoparsicooking@gmail.com

Also available on Amazon worldwide.

Pages

Monday, 5 May 2025

Monday, 10 March 2025

Monday, 3 February 2025

Sunday, 19 January 2025

Saturday, 21 December 2024

Sunday, 17 November 2024

Tuesday, 23 April 2024