Inspired by gormeh sabzi from our Persian heritage, we Parsis cook Bhoji dana ma gos. Often referred to as the national dish of Persian cuisine, it shares similarities. It consists of bhoji greens (greens or sabzi), gos (braised meat or gormeh), and dana (peas or beans).
Typically we prepare this stew with four types of greens: spinach (palak), fenugreek, coriander, and a sour green called gangurai, sometimes known as cholai.
The meat adds flavor to this stew, while the green peas provide sweetness.
Included in the picture is leela vatayna, or whole green pigeon peas, that some people like to use.
The tastes are punctuated, and one can taste the sourness and the meaty broth of this dish. While the Persians add their whole dried lemon for the sourness, Parsi cooking adds raw mangoes or lemon juice. I'm still amazed that this simple, well-balanced meal was formerly part of the extensive menu offered at a Parsi wedding feast. Much has changed over the past century.
3 tbsp of oil
500 gm onion, finely chopped
2 tsps each of crushed fresh ginger and garlic
2 green chillies, slit or finely chopped
1.5 tsp each of salt, cumin, and red chilli powders
1.2 cups crushed tomatoes
2 small raw mangoes peeled and finely chopped (add the mango seed to the pot)
1 kg mutton, lamb, or goat—bone-in pieces.
Heat the oil and add two-thirds of the onion. Sauté until golden brown. Add the ginger, garlic, chiles, salt, cumin, and chilli powder, and stir for two to three minutes. Add the tomatoes, mango, and the remaining raw onion. Sauté for a few minutes and add the pieces of meat. Add 2 cups of fresh water and bring this to a boil. Cover, lower the heat, and cook until the meat is tender.
Now add the peas or the vatayna and cook for a further 15 minutes until the water has all evaporated. If you need to, turn the flame up, remove the lid, and boil until the spinach and meat leave the sides of the pan and you can see little beads of oil come up to the side of the pot to indicate the food is ready. Serve this with fresh warm rotli.
Tips
Use the juice of a fresh large lemon if you can't find mangoes.
Pre-fried store bought fried onions can be substituted.
3 tomatoes will be equivalent to 1.5 cups
You may add a cup and a half of small diced peeled potatoes instead of peas if you prefer. Add this half way to cooking to get a well softened potato.
Photo credit Niloufer Mavalvala
My published cookbooks are available for sale through myself via email, in independent book stores across the world and on Amazon India.
The Route to Parsi Cooking: From Pars to India and Beyond is an award winning book. It has been self published in June 2024. Email at theroutetoparsicooking@gmail.com
The World of Parsi Cooking: Food Across Borders is a 3 award winning book. It has been self published in July 2019 and will be going into its second print in 2022.
The Vegetarian Parsi, inspired by tradition is an award winning cookbook. It was published by Spenta Multimedia India and is available on Amazon India and through email order at thevegetarianparsi@gmail.com.
The Art of Parsi Cooking; reviving an ancient cuisine was published in 2016 by Austin Macauley and continues to be available through amazon book depot book depository and from the publishers.
