Monday, 31 March 2014

Dodhi Ma Gos

Tutraylu Dodhi Ma Gos
Bottle Gourd with Mutton/Goat or Lamb.

At the risk of being frowned upon and this post being avoided, I am sharing an old family recipe which gives the Bottle Gourd a fair chance to stand tall and shine. The truth is it tastes better than it looks; and we all tend to eat with "our eyes" before tasting it with our palate! Sadly it can never look attractive striking or even inviting to whet our appetites. But it does taste good with a fresh rotli/chapati/phulka and so if you are adventurous enough to give this a try, I say go for it.

It must be done right, so follow the recipe to the tee.

There is an interesting story line to this simple recipe. Kaakri ma gos was similar to this recipe and prepared from watery large cucumbers with thin edible skin is used - where seeds are scraped off - like one does with the bottle gourd. Chunks of cucumber were cut and placed on a well braised piece of bone in mutton, lamb or goat - a neck works well for this recipe. Simply cooked with salt ginger and garlic paste in a little oil, a few whole warm spices thrown in for the warmth. The Kaakri is then placed on the cooking meat, tightly shut, simmered until everything is beautifully brought together. This was something Parsis cooked in gujarat, perhaps having brought it with them from Persia where cucumbers and ma gos were are a staple. As we spread further, white bottle gourd replaced the kaakri and dropping in the dry red chillie to further enhance the taste was offered. No water was added to the kaakri ma gos as cucumber has enough liquid to cook the meat through. But either way the deliciousness of either of the vegetable is to ensure the cooking is done until 'tayl per avay'

Dodhi ma gos - an ancient way of eating vegetables and meat

Serves 4 to 6 persons

2 tbsp oil
1/4 kg/ 1/2 lb thinly sliced onions
2 tsp freshly grated ginger
2  tsp fresh grated garlic
1 tsp salt

2 large dry flat red chillies
1/2  kg/ 1 lb  medium pieces of mutton, goat or lamb, bone in
1 cinnamon stick
1 kg/ 2 lb of grated bottle gourd, weigh after peeling, removing the larger seeds
2 cups of water

In a pan heat the oil and add the onions. Saute` until it gets a light brown colour to it. 

Add the ginger, garlic paste, salt, two whole chillies and the meat. Add the cinnamon stick. Saute for 5 minutes and add the Gourd/dudhi/lauki. Add the water bring it all to a boil, lower the heat, cover the pan and allow it to cook for an hour and 15 minutes. Give it a stir, check that meat is cooked through. Continue cooking until the meat is done. Once the meat is ready, keep cooking without the cover until all the water is evaporated. This is very important. Eventually you will see the oil rise to the sides of the pan. This is what you are looking for and only then it becomes ""Tutraylu"".  Also called ghee per avaylu.


Choose young Gourd. Light green skin, unblemished are the best variety. If it is bitter discard it. 
It is better to have a bit of extra onions rather than less if you are unsure.
The large dark flat dry chilli which is smooth and shiny is medium hot.
The dark large dry chilli which is very crinkly is hot.
But this dish must have the chillies to bring out the flavour. 

For more Parsi Food recipes and its origins click for my cookbook

The Art of Parsi Cooking; reviving an ancient cuisine.

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