Thursday 8 November 2018

Eeda Pak


 

Eeda Pak | Egg Halwa

 

We Parsis have a deep love for our eedu (egg) and we have even managed to create a “Pak’’ of the same. With the announcement of the revered egg being healthy once again, isn’t it perhaps the perfect time to revive the once loved Eeda Pak?

 

What was regularly prepared as part of the winter seasonal menus is now rarely ever spoken of or heard of. My great-great-grandmother’s recipe was one that my family looked forward to each year with much gusto. I also know how very fond of it my mum was, but somehow we have not kept up this tradition over the recent past, and perhaps it has been neglected for far too long.

 

I recall eating Eeda Pak as a child and even helping to prepare it from time to time. Next came the sheer delight of breakfast time, when we would slather heaps of cold Eeda Pak on hot toast and hope against hope to enjoy it with a cup of Parsi choi, as it was not for the young, especially if it was strong and sweet like we longingly wished for.

I love the complexity of flavours and textures in this "savoury sweet" – gingery, grainy yet moist, darkish but almost like a good caramel, with a distinct richness. The masses of egg whites left over were always used up—meringues, omelettes, and whipped as part of a myriad of "per eeda" recipes.



A wonderful rich and creamy Pak made with egg yolks.  #ParsiFood


Eeda Pak | Spiced Egg Halva

 

We Parsis have a deep love for our eedu (egg), and we have even managed to create a “Pak’-spreadable halwa of the same.

What was once upon a time a regular feature, prepared as a family event and part of the winter seasonal menus, is now rarely ever spoken of or heard of. My great-great-grandmother’s recipe was one that my family looked forward to each year with much gusto. I also know how very fond of it my mum was, but somehow, we have not kept up this tradition over the recent past, and perhaps it has been neglected for far too long.

I recall eating Eeda Pak as a child and even helping to prepare it from time to time. Next came the sheer delight of breakfast time, when we would slather heaps of cold Eeda Pak on hot toast and hope against hope to enjoy it with a cup of Parsi Choi, which is considered an adult drink, especially if it was strong and sweet like we longingly wished for.

I love the complexity of robust flavours and textures in this savoury and sweet—gingery, grainy yet moist, darkish but almost like a superb caramel, with a distinct richness. The masses of egg whites left over were always used up—meringues, omelettes, and whipped as part of a myriad of "per eeda" recipes.

 

 

Makes approximately 3 ½ kg | 7 lb

Measurements are by weight

 

454 g | 1 lb clarified butter or ghee

25 large egg yolks

1.25 kg | 2.75 lb sugar

2 cup water

340 g | ¾ lb peeled almonds

115 g | ¼ lb peeled pistachios

225 g | ½ lb mixed seeds: pumpkin, melon, magaj, sunflower

200 g | 7 oz singora powder (dry water chestnut)

200 g | 7 oz ginger powder

2 tbsp piprimur powder

100 g | 3.5 oz ghau nu duudh powder- wheat germ soaked, strained and dried. crushed to a powder.

1 tbsp cardamom powder

1 tbsp nutmeg, freshly grated

2 tbsp white pepper powder

2 tbsp vanilla extract

1 ½ tsp saffron threads, crushed and bloomed

1 tsp salt

 

In a pan, heat the sugar and water till all the sugar has dissolved. Then bring it to a boil to make the aik taar no sero (light syrup). Let it cool.

 

Dry roast the nuts and seeds, and then grind them to a coarse powder. In a frying pan, add a few tablespoons of the clarified butter and add all the ground nuts, seeds, and singora powder, stirring constantly and cooking for a few minutes.

Beat the egg yolks in a bowl and pour the cooled syrup into the eggs, stirring until properly incorporated. Add the fried nuts and seeds, including the butter used to cook them in, and add the rest of the butter. Over low heat, continue cooking, stirring often to ensure it is all cooked, until it comes together as a large caramel-coloured ball, about 30 to 45 minutes. Add the ginger, piprimur, cardamom, nutmeg, white pepper, vanilla, and saffron. Remove it from the heat after thoroughly mixing. Cool it and store it in the fridge in covered glass bowls.

 

Tips

 

Aik tar no sero is a typical way of preparing sugar syrup for most Parsi sweets. Simply stir the syrup and hold the spoon over the pot to let it drip. When it ends, there will be one last drop coming down in a fine thread. It is very important to check that every bit of sugar is melted before the mixture comes to a boil. Otherwise, it will crystallise once it cools, making the eeda pak crunchy instead of smooth.

To bloom saffron, add the crushed threads to 2 tablespoons of warm water. Leave it to rest for 5 minutes before adding it in.

The final texture of the eeda pak will depend on how coarse or fine you grind the seeds and nuts.

The strength of the ginger will depend on its freshness. If you like it gingery, add an additional tablespoon or two of ginger powder.

Piprimur, also called pipli mur, is a woody spice that is a cross between cloves and black pepper. It adds a kick of warm spice. However, it is not easily available and can be omitted.

Ghau nu doodh is now available in powder form on supermarket shelves. If you wish to make your own, soak the wheat germ in water for 48 hours, lightly covered with a muslin cloth. Strain the mixture on the muslin cloth and hang it to drip. This cream of wheatgerm and leave it to dry. Crush and use.

 

 

My published cookbooks are available for sale through myself and on amazon.

The World of Parsi Cooking: Food Across Borders is a 3 award winning book. It has been self published in July 2019 and will be going into its second print in 2022. 

The Art of Parsi Cooking; reviving an ancient cuisine was published in 2016 by Austin Macauley and continues to be available through amazon book depot book depository and from the publishers.


Photo courtesy Niloufer Mavalvala





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