This presentation below was at the Umea Food Symposium on Saturday May 27th, 2023.
My introduction
Life is a journey one embraces;
We don't always know where we are going , and that, can be exciting and interesting.
I thought I would be an ambassador's wife, but fell in love and married a banker.
What I did not know then, is that I would be an amabassador for my family and for the Parsi cuisine and community. My name is Niloufer Mavalvala, I was born and raised in Karachi and now live in Canada. My cookbooks on Parsi cooking, a regional cuisine of India, have won me four gourmand awards for which I am most appreciative.
(I had not won my fifth award when I was presenting).
Saturday 27th May 2023
Umea, Sweden
Parsi cooking,
where it all began.
So why Parsi? Pars,
now known as Fars, is the historical name for one of Iran’s provinces and was
the birthplace of the Persian Empire and its founder, Cyrus the Great (born ca.
600 BCE). Parsis, or
the 'people from Pars’, are the Zoroastrians from ancient Persia who were
forced to migrate under persecution and landed up in Gujarat, India. They
brought with them their food, culture, traditions, and heritage. They adapted
and adopted, and Parsi cuisine was born.
Despite Parsi cuisine having
originated hundreds of years ago, there was very little published material to
share until the 1800s, when the first Parsi cookbooks were officially
published. Vividh Vani by Meherbai Wadia, is the most famous and is a
handwritten journal released posthumously by her doctor, who may have even been
her admirer.
#1 To my delight, my research
confirmed that the way we cooked and prepared our foods 200 years ago is still very
relevant to the way we cook today. Authentic Parsi food must be well balanced. Never
overly spicy nor oily, just simply flavourful. The addition of a pinch of sugar
or a piece of jaggery, well-balanced
warm spices, and the addition of fruit vinegar, lemon juice or even unripe
mango, all help bring out the flavour. Tikkhu, khattu, mitthu, or spicy,
sour, and sweet is the trilogy one follows. While there are no dietary restrictions
in Zoroastrianism, we are taught moderation, encouraged to avoid
gluttony or drunkenness, to respect nature and our planet as well as the plant
and animal kingdoms.
Our customs
and culture are rich in symbolism. Food, culture, tradition and
heritage speak volumes about where we come from and how we exist. It depicts
our past and shapes our future. I like to call this our "Parsi
panu" about which I speak today.
#2
· These
silver utensils are over 100 years old and were part of my great-grandparents'
homes.
· Water,
milk, and wine are symbolically filled into the three karasyas (mini-pitchers).
· In the
three katoris (bowls) are a carrot and dry fruit pickle (gajjar mewa nu
achar); pickled limes, (limbu nu achar); and a tomato ginger jam (tamota
nay adu ni chutney). These represent the tikkhu, khattu, mitthu
trilogy I mentioned.
· The mini afarghanyu
is used for light, where the candles stand in for the divo, lit in many Parsi homes.
· And
the soparo is where we keep the sakur, or pieces of
rock sugar. I believe that no meal is complete without a grain of salt, and I
have pink salt crystals for that purpose.
· Marble,
wood, and metal are all elements of nature, as are the water, stone and trees
that represent daily life.
· Flowers
brighten everything, and the traditional rose offers its sweet fragrance.
Flowers hung at the entryway, known as torans, are popular in Parsi homes. While this is a beautifully done, complicated toran expressly made for a wedding, we prepare it with seasonal flowers that are refreshed every day at dawn with fresh flowers to brighten and perfume our homes.
My books begin by sharing inspirational stories about an
ancient cuisine that has remained frozen in time. From our grandmothers to our
grandchildren, over generations, Parsi cooking has continued to be, in essence,
much the same. Wonderfully prepared, simple fare that has flavours and health benefits
beyond our conscious knowledge, taken for granted over generations.
It
seems Parsis have a food for every occasion and an occasion for every food.
Cooking
in banana leaves and infusing the food with its delicious aromas by wrapping
and steaming the fish in them is centuries old, but the traditions continue to
this day. Patra ni macchi is an iconic dish in our cuisine and much in
demand by all our non-Parsi friends when they visit.
During
the winter months, when most weddings take place, a thousand people are fed at
tables with banana leaves being the “plate”. Typically, the wedding feast
consists of seven to ten courses. It is quite an extraordinary experience.
Imagine, today, being able to cater like this in New York, London, L. A. or
Toronto among others.
Have
you tried bhokra before? Possibly the best 'fried' cake you've ever had. Or how
about batasas, the centuries-old, simple biscuits of buttery dough and almonds ?
Slowly baked, they are a household staple for dipping into a cup of strong,
sweet, milky tea flavoured with fresh mint leaves and lemon grass to balance
the ying and yang. We call it Parsi choi.
The daar ni pori is a sweet lentil paste wrapped
in a hand-made casing that is flaky but hardy enough to transport. This
tradition dates to times when people travelled for days to reach their
destination. The circular shape is symbolic of the earth, while the distinct outer
and inner shells reflect the physical and spiritual worlds we live within.
The open Pori is something I came up with recently, it is similar to a galette.
At this
point, I described the collage at great length, when why and how the foods are
served.
I wanted to thank you, Edouard and the Gourmand Awards for
the opportunity these awards have opened up for me to pursue my
passion of placing our ancient Parsi cuisine on the global culinary map. When
one is not a graduate of an internationally acclaimed cookery school nor
attached to a big publishing house, one must work harder and smarter every
single day to reach the sky. But everyone needs that one person to believe in
them. Thank you, Edouard Cointreau, for being that person and allowing me to
introduce my cuisine to the world.
My published cookbooks are available for sale through myself and on Amazon.
The World of Parsi Cooking: Food Across Borders is a 3 award winning book. It has been self published in July 2019 and will be going into its second print in 2022.
The Vegetarian Parsi, inspired by tradition has won two awards. It was published by Spenta Multimedia India and is available on Amazon India and through email order at thevegetarianparsi@gmail.com.
The Art of Parsi Cooking; reviving an ancient cuisine was published in 2016 by Austin Macauley and continues to be available through amazon book depot book depository and from the publishers. This book was exhibited at the Alfred Noble House.
This library has the largest collection of cookbooks in the world.
My published cookbooks are available for sale through myself and on Amazon.
The World of Parsi Cooking: Food Across Borders is a 3 award winning book. It has been self published in July 2019 and will be going into its second print in 2022.
The Vegetarian Parsi, inspired by tradition is an award winning cookbook. It was published by Spenta Multimedia India and is available on Amazon India and through email order at thevegetarianparsi@gmail.com.
The Art of Parsi Cooking; reviving an ancient cuisine was published in 2016 by Austin Macauley and continues to be available through amazon book depot book depository and from the publishers.
Excellent presentation. Niloufer has touched on many aspects of Parsi food which make me want to buy her book, even though I generally avoid cooking. My cooking has the virtue of being quickly executed and with very few ingredients. I am sure my eldest daughter would be very interested as she is a self-taught cook.
ReplyDeleteThank you for your kind words of appreciation.
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